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Transfer Proof Liquid Makeup
 

Phase

Ingredient

% Wt.

INCI Name

 

 

 

 

A

Wate

QS

 

Butylene Glycol

2.0

Butylene Glycol

 

Keltrol

0.1

Xanthan Gum

 

Centrolex D

0.2

Lecithin

 

Disodium EDTA

0.1

Disodium EDTA
ChromaPhilic TiO2

7.5

Iron Oxide/Dimethicone
Copolyol

 

ChromaPhilic Yellow

1.2

"

 

ChromaPhilic Red

0.5

"

 

ChromaPhilic Black

0.06

"

 

ChromaPhilic Micro TiO2

4.0

"

 

B Lambent-F-60,000cst

3.0

Dimethicone

OsoFine

2.5

Colloidal Oatmeal

 

Finsolv TN

4.0

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

 

Cetyl Alcohol

0.2

Cetyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol

0.2

Stearyl Alcohol

 

Parsol MCX

5.0

Octyl Methoxycinnamate

 

 C

Sepigel 305

0.7

Polyacrylamide/C13-14
isoparaffin/Laureth-7

 

 D

Germaben II E 1.0 Propylen Glycol/Diazolidinyl Urea/Methylparaben/
Propylparaben
E Aquamere S-2012

5.0

PVP/Dimethiconylacrylate/
Polycarbamyl/Polyglycol
Ester

 

Procedure:

In final mixing kettle, with adequate mixing add Phase A ingredients in order listed. 

Begin heating after the addition of the Centrolex D. Continue heating, with combined homogenizer and side-sweep mixing and add remainder of Phase A ingredients.  In a separate vessel combine Phase B ingredients and begin heating to 80°C with gentle mixing.  When Phase A reaches 78°C, add Phase B (80°C) into Phase A.  Mix for 15 minutes and begin cooling down to 65°C and add Phase C.  After Phase C has been added resume cooling down to 60°C then switch to only side-sweep mixing.  At 30°C add Phase D, then Phase E.  Continue cooling down to room temperature.  Kettles must remain covered at all times.

Key Formulations Attributes:

Emulsifier-free formulation/Neutral pH-6.70 (also stable at lower pH's)
Easy to manufacture-no pulverizing or colloid milling of pigments required.
High molecular weight silicone (60,000cst dimethicone) for smooth skin feel
SPF 15
4 weeks 50
°C stability
Transfer-Proof/Long-Wear Polymers (Aquamere S-2012)

 

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